Halfway!

I really cannot believe it… I am 56 days into my semester here in Italy. Which translates into “I AM HALFWAY DONE”!!! It is very crazy to think that I have been here for that long. And I am kind of sad. It feels like I just got here and parts of me really do not want to go home. So what should this blog be about…. Hmmm what about another list of what I have learned these past 56 days (you know by now that I love my lists!)

1. I am a lot more flexible than I give myself credit for… I usually go into a situation with a plan, especially when I want to maximize my time. In Italy, I have been really relaxed and let things happen as they happen (okay, I still try to make a plan, but do not freak out when something changes or it is decided to do something else).

2. I am becoming more adventurous with food. As many of you know, cheese really grosses me out. I have actually begun to eat fresh mozzarella (which is not melted). It may seem really trivial, but for me, it is a really big deal.

3. I have learned to laugh at myself. If I got lost, I would freak out a little and then profusely apologize to the people I was with. Now, I just laugh and say that we are always going to remember this adventure when we got lost in (insert destination here).

4. I am more self-confident. I used to be really embarrassed to use my very, very poor Italian skills, but now I try to chatter as much as possible. Even if I am saying something incorrectly, the Italians really appreciate the effort I made to talk to them in Italian (and they are willing to help me out).

5. I know that I can live by myself, prepare my own meals, and take care of my place to live. I was a little apprehensive at first about living in an apartment with just roommates. It turned out to be a great living arrangement. I love living in an apartment and all the freedom that comes with it.

6. City living might actually be for me. I love being able to walk to wherever I need to go. So maybe I will be relocating to a city after college….

7. I apparently look like a Florentine, because tourists ask me for directions. It is a confidence booster! I look like I know where I am going (which is true most of the time) and I look Italian (sort of… it’s the brown hair and olive-ish skin tone). It is fun to freak out the tourists – one came up to me and asked if I spoke English. It was funny to see their faces when I gave them directions – it was a mix of amazement, shock, and appreciation. I am an American in “Florentine clothing”!

I have learned so much about myself this trip (and probably more to come!) but I have also learned so much by just observing the Italians and the tourists, learning in class, and talking with my friends and peers. So here are some things I have noticed during October:

1. The minute the thermometer reads 60°F, the Italians pull out the winter jackets, the scarves, and hats. Meanwhile, the tourists are running around in t-shirts and shorts (okay, maybe not all of the tourists, just some of them).

2. The Italians have the most beautiful jackets I have ever seen and always accessorize with the best scarves… it makes you feel like the biggest slob in the whole-wide world – even if you are dressed in your Sunday best.

3. We have horse and carriage rides around the city center and the horses are really cute. But when the horse has a sign on his bridle that says, “Horse Bites”, you really shouldn’t touch it…

4. Do not eat off the special “tourist menus”… they may be cheaper but they are modified to the Western palate (aka they are bland and boring). Get food from the normal menu – it is loads better.

5. If you want cheap, good food, find a college kid (same advice works in the United States….)

6. Read about the museums ahead of time – websites and guidebooks will tell you what not to miss, cool fun facts, and descriptions of the important pieces. Most of the museums that I have visited have only had Italian description signs. I have not been to the two huge museums (Academia and the Uffizi) yet, so I am not sure about their description signs. But for smaller museums, this is a great idea.

7. Pharmacies are your friend… They are so much cheaper than going to the doctor and they give you what you need to be on your way.

8. Fashion changes so quickly here. The moment you have the perfect trendy wardrobe, it goes out of style. Sadly, the only thing not going out of style is the harem pant, which is much different than the harem pant found in the United States.

9. It is never too cold for gelato!

10. The weather might be getting colder, but the people are still just as warm and friendly.

It has been a fun-filled first half of the semester. I hope it is just as wonderful for my second half!

Ciao!

Hello Again!

I am back, my dear blog readers!!!! I have had the craziest week of my life here in Florence and guess what – you get to hear all about it! This blog post is going to be a little bit on the long side, but full of lots of news from Italy!

It all started this past Saturday when I went to Eurochocolate (Chocolate Festival) in Perugia, Italy. It is two Saturdays dedicated to one of Perguia’s signature ingredients, chocolate. I was very excited because I love chocolate. It was going to be a good break from midterm studying as well, so I was doubly excited.

I woke up feeling a little groggy and achy (a warning that I did not heed) and I promptly got myself together and then my roommate and I headed off with three friends to the train station to meet up with the program taking us to the festival. We got on the train and got our Chocolate Cards – if we showed them at certain booths, we would get free chocolate (yay!). I sacked out on the train and awoke when we pulled into the Perugia train station. All the kids were then shuttled to the beginning of the Chocolate Festival.

The Chocolate Festival was magical – but really crowded. Booths everywhere sold different types of chocolate in all different forms. The air was filled with the scent of chocolate and coffee. It took all the restraint I had not to drop fifty euro at the first chocolate booth. To stave off impulsive purchases, we walked around and took in the landscape. We saw chocolate truffles, hot chocolate, chocolate by the block (50 euro gets you one kilo of chocolate – aka a 2.2 pound chocolate bar), and so much more. Of course, we walked around and got our free chocolates (a chocolate map of the festival, free hot chocolate, and a chocolate “zipper” which was the theme of this year’s festival).

Chocolate!

Our travels brought us to a beautiful old performing arts theater that had been transformed into a chocolate demonstration arena. Professors from the local pastry school were showing the public how to make chocolate confections while local merchants sold artisan treats. The chocolate sellers were from all over the globe, most notably from France, Belgium, and Switzerland. I bought my first piece of chocolate, a chocolate record that will actually play music when put on a record player. I don’t know where I can find a record player in Florence and I do not think that I have the will power to let it sit in my fridge until December so I can take it home (thus I will probably eat it – don’t want to waste good chocolate). It was about now that we decided before we ate any more chocolate that we should eat some real lunch.

Chocolate Demonstration

We had lunch at a recommendation of our friends’ roommates who came to Perugia earlier this semester. It was a quaint little hotel with a very classy restaurant. It was really nice I have to admit to have a nice sit down lunch. The waiters were all wearing white dinner jackets and black tuxedo pants. I had homemade pasta with a pink sauce. The way they served it was amazing – all the food was rolled out on a cart and the pasta was sitting in a little cast iron pot. The waiter tossed the pasta with the sauce tableside and then put it on a hot plate. It was the best meal that I have had in Italy to date. It was beyond incredible.

My amazing lunch!

We wrapped up the Chocolate Festival with a visit to the Lindt tent (of course). It was a game type tent and I was excited to put myself to the test. We were blindfolded and given a sample of chocolate to taste. We then had to feel different bowls filled with ingredients and tell the judge what numbered bowl that held the ingredient we thought was in the sample we tasted (very confusing… even more so when you are blindfolded – apparently I kept walking in the wrong direction). I guessed correctly (hazelnuts!) and I won a free bar of Lindt chocolate! It was so much fun! What else made it great was that my judge did a year exchange with a high school near me. She was really excited to talk with someone who knew that high school – it truly is a small world!

It was an uneventful ride home from the Chocolate Festival and I fell into bed the minute I got home and slept the rest of the night.

When I woke up Sunday, the achy, groggy feeling I felt the day before manifested itself into a cold. As I got up, my stomach began to swim. I think I had too much excitement on Saturday at the Chocolate Festival (basically too much chocolate and staying outside too much). I stayed curled up in bed all day surrounded by my books, studying for midterms. I went to bed early, hoping to calm my stomach and my growing nerves for midterms.

I woke up Monday morning bright and early. It was chilly in the apartment (the heat does not get turned on until November 15^th – it is an Italian law that helps conserve energy) so I bundled up to go outside to class. As cold as it was in the apartment, it was pretty nice outside. I unwrapped my scarf as I walked to my very first midterm. My midterm was pretty painless – I was done after about an hour and a half. The rest of Monday was spent studying for my next slew of midterms. I was sad because I couldn’t go to the market. If I did, half of what I would have gotten would have gone to waste (since I am going on midterm holiday starting this weekend). I miss my routine and sad that I have to wait two weeks until I can go again.

Tuesday was midterm in the morning and Italian class in the afternoon. What dragged me from the monotony of studying for midterms was that my roommates and I went out for dinner! One of my roommates had to go to a restaurant and write a paper on it and if I did not get out of the apartment, I think I was going to scream!! So we went to this cute restaurant right by our school and it was just what I needed. I got a big bowl of gnocchi (the potato pasta) with pesto and my roommates split a house pizza (ham and olives). What was amazing was their homemade balsamic vinegar. It was think and creamy (it might have been balsamic cream) and they served it with thick slices of bread for dipping. It was so amazingly good – it was probably the best thing I have had so far in Italy (besides the pasta at the Chocolate Festival). It was the best of both worlds – my roommate got her paper done and we got a fun night out.

Wednesday was our first rainy day in Florence. It was sad, but we knew this day would come (fall and winter is the rainy season). It poured as I walked to my midterm (Gender Relations in Italian Society). As I settled into my pink couch (my class is in Sala Rosa, the pink room) and began my midterm. Two hours later I emerged, exhausted, cough getting worse from all the dampness, to an incredible sunny sky. It was saying, “Keep going Catherine! You are doing so well!”. The change in the weather made me feel better and kept me in a good mood as I walked back to the apartment and began to study for my final two midterms.

I was roused from my sleep this morning (Thursday) by a strong coughing fit. Sitting up in bed, I took deep breaths to calm my heartbeat and to relax my chest. After getting ready for class (and a cough drop later), I headed out the door, basically cough-free. My first midterm took me the whole two and a half hours, so I ran home after so I could get an extra bit of studying before my Italian midterm. Thankfully, I was very prepared for that midterm and I flew through it.

Before heading home to pack for Paris tomorrow, I stopped by the American bookstore to pick up a book for the flight. I am a self-professed bookworm; I love going to the bookstore and the library and loading up on books. Walking into the store felt like going home – it smelt like paper, ink, and coffee. I felt like if I closed my eyes and then opened them, I would be home with my dad in my favorite bookstore, a book in one hand and a hot chocolate in the other. I took my time looking through the shelves, looking for the perfect book to take with me. I ditched the new bestsellers for the bargain, gently used books. I got two books instead (need to save my money for French crepes!) and had a nice chat with the American cashier (who told me that to make my coughing go away I should have some milk and brandy before bed…).

I came home, packed my bag, charged all my electronics, and talked to my mom. That was the perfect end to a hectic week. Tomorrow starts midterm holiday and I am very excited. I am off to Paris and Dublin and they are going to be so amazing. But planning my own trips was not easy – this whole process really has made me appreciate my parents planning our family vacations. It was crazy trying to coordinate with other people, planning flights, and finding good hotels. At least it is all done and now I get to sit back and relax for the next week.

Next blog will be on Tuesday!!!! I hope you guys have a great weekend… I know I will!!!!!

Ciao and baci!

I Can Explain...

My dear blog followers….

I know that it has been a week since I have blogged last and I apologize profusely. I am mortified that I promised regular blog posts and that I have not been keeping up. It has been a crazy week – I have been fighting a cold, getting little sleep, and studying for midterms (you actually study during study abroad, who knew?). With all of these factors, it has made it near impossible to sit down and write a proper blog that is worthy of your time.

A really, really long blog will come tomorrow night (my time, so your afternoonish) I promise. It will have to suffice until next Tuesday because I will be going on a midterm holiday this coming week. It is not an ideal situation but the blogs will be nice and extensive!

I am truly sorry and I hope that you will keep checking back!!

Ciao,

Catherine

Spiritual Sunday

Another day, another beautiful place to see. Today we went to Assisi with my program and it was spectacular. The weather was great; fall had truly come - crisp, clean, and sunny. What is different about Assisi is that it is the birthplace of the Franciscan Order of monks, so it is a large spiritual center. It was an amazing trip, one that, believe it or not, made me more self-aware.

After two previous trips this weekend, I passed out on the bus ride to Assisi, so I missed the countryside (which was not Tuscan – we were in Umbria, another region of Italy). When we got to Assisi, I learned that Assisi was on top of a very large hill, surrounded by forests. I love to walk and hike, but I really wasn’t in the mood to hike up a hill of that magnitude (to prove how out of shape I am, my legs are uber sore just from some hiking on Friday and walking around on Saturday). We met up with our guides and I was about to grumble to my roommates that there was going to be no way I was going to haul myself up that hill when we stopped walking in front of escalators. Yes, escalators – I rode one up the hill! Very exciting!!

We walked through the huge gate, and right in front of us was a huge church. It was the Basilica of St. Claire (the bricks were pink and white, very girlie). She was a daughter of noble birth who was called to a higher power, ran away from home, and since she could not become a Franciscan monk (St. Francis had already started his monastery), she created her own convent. She was buried in the church’s crypt, where they also keep garments she and St. Francis wore (so basically it’s like a museum). Since it was Sunday, we had to go into the church without a guide (Sunday is the day of rest, so that means no work can be done). Mass was being performed and we quietly followed the stream of people going down into the crypt. The priest was giving the sermon but the air was still filled with the scent of incense. I closed my eyes and took in a deep breath, comforted by the familiar smell. At that moment, I felt so homesick – for my family, friends, and for the comfortable routine I have. I quickly pulled myself together and proceeded into the dimly lit crypt.

It was the nicest crypt I have ever seen, about as nice as the one in the Vatican. The walls were nice and new, museum-like lights highlighted important items and thick pieces of plexi-glass separated us from the garments and items that St. Claire and St. Francis used. The line directed me from the items to the other side of the crypt. Working my way around the little chapel, I walked to the window where I could see the tomb of St. Claire. As respectful as I could be, I gazed at the coffin of the girl who gave up everything to serve God. Next to me, a woman clutched the bars that were on the window, as if they were the only thing that anchored her to this spot. It reminded me of when I was in Greece and a woman crawled on her hands and knees to a chapel honoring a saint who performed healing miracles. It amazes me the faith some people have and I have so much respect for them.

I was blinded as I walked out into the sunshine after seeing the crypt. I was greeted with panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside. After a quick photo-op (of course), we headed throughout the back streets of Assisi. It was amazing to see a town so removed from the outside society – washers and dryers are a recent occurrence. It is a beautiful town, full of life and pride. Our tour guide took us to the last piece of Roman architecture still standing in Assisi, the Temple of Minerva. You would think that a Roman temple would look out of place amongst the brick and stone, but it fits in beautifully.

The countryside

The last place we toured was the Basilica of St. Francis. What makes this so special is that it was bestowed the title “World Capitol of Peace” by the Pope. St. Francis worked hard for peace and it is here that peace conferences take place. In the lawn that stretches out from the church, the word “PAX” (peace in Latin) is formed out of bushes. The simplicity made it so beautiful and so powerful at the same time.

PAX

But how does all of this make me more aware of myself… When we were being briefed about the trips our program was going to take us on, we were told about Assisi. We were told that it has two basilicas, but it really does not make it really religious, and they were right. I am religious, but the town has a vibe about it. Walking around, there was an energy that made you feel like you were a part of something bigger than yourself. It is really hard to explain, but for me, it made me feel connected with my innermost self. When I do yoga (which is pretty infrequently these days), I get the same feeling after I finish a particularly strenuous session. When I rest in child’s pose, with my knees curled under my torso, my arms outstretched, and my forehead resting on the floor, I feel connected to myself. When I am in church and I sit and reflect, I feel connected to my inner self.

As I sit here writing my blog (this entry turned out a lot more serious than intended…), and reflect on Assisi, one word keeps resounding in my head – spirituality. I have felt connection with myself and maybe to a higher power (whoever it maybe) through being out in nature, through yoga, and through meditative prayer. These are three very different disciplines but in a way they are all connected – they all make me become more self-aware. And I guess this is what St. Francis wanted. He wanted people to come from everywhere, every religion, every belief system, every walk of life, and connect with one another and to see that we are more similar than we are different.

My semester here in Italy is proving that I am learning not just about food, wine, environmentalism, and Italian, but of spirituality, peace, and self-awareness and acceptance.

Ciao!

Isn't That A Crayola Crayon Color?

Today was a day of firsts! Today was my first time in the Tuscan countryside! After a restful sleep and breakfast, my roommates and I headed out to the train station (I seem to spend a lot of time there it seems in my blogs….). It was there that we boarded a bus to Siena!

Siena is in Tuscany, which I believe is one of the most beautiful places on Earth. And as you know, I have been trying to get a picture on the bus of this famous countryside. My track record for getting pictures of Tuscany on the bus is not very good (I have never gotten one…) but this is really exciting because I actually will be in Tuscany, thus I will be able to get a picture (if not on the bus, then when I am actually in Siena). What amazed me was that I did not fall asleep on the bus ride to Siena and I was able to get a picture (hooray for small victories)! It was amazing to see all the vineyards and the olive groves and the mountains. Tuscany is so amazing and I am so happy that I could have seen it from my bus windows.

The Tuscan Countryside!

Our bus pulled into Siena and it was magnificent. We could see St. Domenic’s Church, a huge structure made of Sienese bricks. These bricks are used everywhere in Siena – for the buildings, the houses, the roads, and the walls. The material that gives them their color is a reddish brown clay, which in turn gives us the Crayola crayon color Burnt Sienna. It was really cool to see where the color name originated.

The St. Domenic’s Church was our first stop on our tour – it was pretty plain looking from the outside, but inside it was absolutely gorgeous. There were paintings hanging on the walls and beautiful chapels. One was all stone and precious stones, dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena (we share the same name!). She was credited with telling the Pope to move the seat of the Catholic Church from France back to Rome. What was also cool was that there were only pieces of frescos left on the walls. When the Black Plague came through Siena, the townspeople rubbed lye on the walls of the church to cleanse it… which was very great for hygiene but removed centuries old frescos.

After leaving the church, we walked (with our wonderful guide) around the heart of Siena. We learned that it is divided into 17 neighborhoods, each represented by an animal. There are so many different animals – giraffes, rhinos, dragons, and caterpillars are some of the animals that represent the neighborhoods. These neighborhoods have a friendly rivalry, which is on full display in the summer when they have a horse race between some of the neighborhoods. The winner wins a trophy and bragging rights for the year.

Our next monument that we saw was the Duomo of Siena. This was a big stop on the pilgrimage road that led to Rome. Across from the Duomo there is the largest hostel in Italy (which is now a museum). It was really incredible to see how large it was and how many people could stay there. To rival the hostel’s large size, the Duomo is just as large and opposing. It is done in the gothic-style with Arabic coloration of black-and-white stripes. As beautiful as it was on the outside, it was spectacular on the inside. There were pillars everywhere with the black-and-white strips, the ceiling was all frescoed and illuminated and there was a large marble chapel with statues created by Michelangelo. The great master Bernini also created a chapel in the Duomo, but we could not see it because it was being cleaned. It was the most amazing place I have ever seen.

The Duomo

Our tour concluded in Il Campo, the central square of Siena. It was all bricked and it was a great place to get lunch and sit down and people watch. After a quick lunch break, we packed up, got back on the bus and headed off to San Gimignano.

San Gimignano is the perfect Tuscan town. If I ever were to live in Italy for the rest of my life, it would be here. It is a little medieval town on top of a hill, surrounded by forests and vineyards. It is the most amazing place ever. We got there and walked around, seeing the churches, the famous towers (there are only 14 left standing), and the beautiful overlooks. The town is full of character – wine shops, olive oil stands, and butchers sell the local wine, olive oil, and wild boar products that are produced in this region. There is a homey vibe, making you want to stop, sit down, have a glass of wine and watch the sunset. Since we needed to go home soon, we decided to skip the wine and go for gelato instead. The place where we went was a part of the 2008-2009 Italian Team going to the Gelato World Champs (they won that year!). I got dark chocolate and nutella gelato in a cone and it was awesome…. the best gelato I have ever had here in Italy. Sadly, after gelato, we had to go home.

Beautiful Tuscan Countryside

Gelato!

It was an amazing day! I finally got my pictures of the Tuscan countryside and saw some magnificent places. Italy is so different than what I expected and I love seeing all the different parts of the country. There is so much more to explore and experience!

Ciao!

Exhaustion

I am totally beyond exhaustion. After a crazy busy week, my roommate and I decided to head out to Cinque Terre on Friday for a mind and soul-clearing hike through nature. As many of you know, I love to hike and I love nature, so it was going to be an amazing break from Florence (which is totally awesome, but lacking trees) and papers/exams.

We woke up and packed our bags (apples, water, guide books, money, cell phone…) and headed to the train station. As we got on the train, a huge group walked past us, holding big flags and singing. We never found out the occasion, but we surmise that it was for a soccer match. On the train, we relaxed for our big hikes and met a cute older couple, who told us about their trip to Chianti (it was so cute because they were showing us how they were going to get there and what wineries they were going to go to).

We pulled into La Spezia (the base station where all the trains to Cinque Terre leave from), bought out Cinque Terre day passes and headed off on another train to Riomaggiore, the first town of Cinque Terre. This region is pretty cool – the reason it is called Cinque Terre is because there are five towns on five different hills (hence “five lands” or “cinque terre”). You can hike from Riomaggiore to Monterosso (the last town) in about five hours but one of the hikes between town #2 and town #3 was closed so you would need to take the train instead.

Riomaggiore was incredible. It is picturesque and the mountains are full of olive groves and vineyards. We hiked to the very top of the hill where the town was situated and had panoramic views of the sea and the neighboring towns. It was incredible. We walked down the mountain and into the town center. We stopped and got pizza at this little shop (it was so good) and ate as we wandered around. After we finished, we walked to the start of the Lover’s Hike, the walk from Riomaggiore to the second town, Manarola.

Riomaggiore

The Lover’s Hike was basically flat and paved and it was full of graffiti. Lovers’ names are scrawled on every surface and they are in every language. It was cute to see names from last week but also from years ago. What also makes this hike so awesome are the awesome views. You can see the water and the hills everywhere and it is truly breathtaking. What also made me catch my breath was the abundance of recycling pails – bins for garbage, plastic, paper, cans, and glass (sometimes even organic matter). It was great to see that the people who oversee Cinque Terre (most of it is considered as a national park) care about keeping it clean and environmentally sound.

We arrived in Manarola after about twenty minutes and we walked directly to the water’s edge. The water is so magnetic here – maybe I miss the beach, but the crisp, clean air draws you in and makes you want to sit down right at the water’s edge in the sun and let your cares fly away. We decided to work for our rest, so we attempted to do a vineyard hike – we just needed to find the path first. My roommate and I hiked up a steep set of stairs (which made me realize how out of shape I am in – there were people who were much more advanced in age than I who were climbing with less difficulty). We came to a locked gate and another set of stairs marked with the red marker. We climbed the stairs and we came to a grassy patch, which looked like someone’s yard. So down we went, and explored the cute little church that sat at the start of the killer stairs; it was here where we learned from a nice man at the church that the vineyard was exactly where we were. The problem was that where we were was lacking a vineyard… so we gave up and went to the water’s edge and enjoyed the breeze and some sun (and drank lots of water – it was warm).

Manarola

From Manarola, we took the train to Corniglia (town #3). This town was on top of a hill and we needed to climb 382 steps to get to it from the train station. We did not go on the correct road to get to the stairs, so we ended up taking a longer route (but it was the paved bus route… so not too bad). Our ascent started with a group of Southern people who were about middle aged (they turned back and took the bus up the hill); we ran into them in the town center, where they congratulated us for our impressive stamina and athletic skill – very sweet of them to say! I was feeling a little lightheaded and decided that I needed to get a little bit of a sugar kick, so we got some gelato (dark chocolate gelato – the best I have had so far in Italy). I followed my sugary treat with a local peach (which was so awesome), getting a big sugar boost and it helped me climb throughout this really hilly town. We got to a lookout point where we could see an amazing start to the sunset and this cool little sea cave.

It was getting dark and we decided to take the train to Monterosso (town #5), where there was a very good restaurant. As we waited for the train, the sun began to set. It was so beautiful… The sun was almost set when we got off the train and stepped onto the boardwalk at Monterosso. Before all the light was gone, we headed onto the beach (which is little pebbles, not traditional New Jersey shore sand) and took pictures. There were people still swimming (way too cold), fishing, and boating and it made me want to stay there forever. I was pulled out of my thoughts by my stomach, which was telling me that I needed to eat some real food… NOW! So we headed off to the restaurant, which was situated in the cute town center. This restaurant is most famous for the way it prepares rabbit. I personally would not have had rabbit if I was in the States, but in Italy it is a specialty. So I had to have it – and I don’t think that rabbit is the food for me. I have issues with taking chicken off the bone, and rabbit is basically like that. So it looked like I did not eat anything, but I really did. So I can say that I had rabbit, a Tuscan specialty.

My rabbit dinner

After a filling dinner, we walked along the boardwalk and then headed to the train station for sleepy train rides home. It was a really good day. It was nice to get out of the city and into nature. The break was needed and it will kick-start a fun-filled weekend of trips into the Tuscan countryside. Maybe I’ll get a picture this time….

Ciao!

Ciao, come stai?

This blog post is going to be dedicated to my Italian language skills. I came to Florence with a very limited knowledge of the language (“ciao” was probably the only thing I could say) and now I can start little conversations by myself! Hooray for big victories!

My newfound confidence in my ability to speak Italian was when I got my very first Italian quiz back and found out that I scored a 95%! It was reassuring to see that I have actually retained something (and the hours of studying probably helped). I can officially say hello and ask how someone is, order food at a restaurant, and count from one to one hundred. It does not seem like much, but for me, I can really see the progress.

This week was a monumental week in Italian class because we are learning verb conjugations. It is very challenging because some verbs do not fit the rules and it is hard to spot them. But the silver lining to learning these grammar rules is that it opens new vocabulary to practice. I can actually learn things that I can use in my daily life.

Today I got to flex my Italian when I was going to have lunch with family friends passing through Florence. We were looking for a specific restaurant and the directions that they were given were a little confusing. So I walked up to a little newspaper stand and asked for the restaurant. What came out of the owner’s mouth was a jumble of Italian words, spoken quickly. Thankfully, I got the directions and we were on our way. We got to the restaurant without incident, and I was pleased with myself that I listened and actually understood what the stand owner was saying to me.

What limits me the most is my vocabulary. I have the vocab of a three year old…. probably not even that. I can ask if the person I am talking to if they speak English (Parla l’inglese?) but my knowledge basically ends there. I get frustrated because I want to learn more but I understand that it will take time for my vocabulary to build. I have learned so much in the first 6 weeks that I have been here and I am so excited to see how good my Italian will be in another few months. Who knows, I might become fluent…

Ciao!

Ode To The Food Market

Today’s blog is all about one of my favorite places in Florence – Il Mercato Central. I go every week and it is my ritual… I have been going every week since I have been in Florence and it has anchored my weekly routine.

Today I went to the market with a plan, but most times I go and just pick out what looks good that week and plan meals around that. It baffles me the selection that this market offers. But I also have to say that it is very seasonal. A few weeks ago, peaches were taking over the stands. Now they are only occupying a small space, while squash takes their original place as king crop. Not knowing what will be at the market forces me to be flexible and creative when it comes to my produce.

Like I said, I had a plan today. I wanted to make carrot-ginger soup, so I needed one pound of carrots and ginger. The carrots looked amazing so I bought two kilos of carrots (which I know is about four pounds), a kilo of string beans, and a bunch of basil, all for six euro. That is what I love about this market – fresh produce can be plentiful and cheap if one eats with the season. I could have gotten a kilo of peaches but that would have been four euro. Why would I do that, when I can get a lot more for my money?

The other benefit of going to the market every week is that I have bonded with the grocers and butchers. They know my face and that I am a good, reliable customer. I am always greeted with a smile and a “Ciao Bella” from Mother/Daughter grocer (today I met Father Grocer, who is just as patient with my Italian). I can practice my Italian and if I mess up (which I do very frequently), they help me sound out the word and let me try again (I feel like I am five and learning how to read, but it really does help). It is a safe haven for Italian language practice – they take their time with me, even if they have a long line waiting.

The meat market still throws me for a loop. The smell is sharp and acrid and it takes getting used too (I don’t notice it after a few moments though). I usually make a beeline for my butcher, a cute old father and son duo. I get my protein of choice (usually free-range ground beef – chicken is really expensive, so I go to the supermarket for it) and pay for it. The son is a little less patient, but the father lets me try my hand saying my order in Italian. Usually if there is a long line and the father sees me, he usually takes my order, leaving the locals to order from his son. He makes sure that I say my order properly (he doesn’t give me anything unless I ask in Italian because he says it’s good practice) and then gives me my meat all wrapped up perfectly.

Today, instead of heading out the doors and to the baker, I walked around the whole market, looking for ginger. There are a few grocers in the meat market (most of the produce is sold outside in a tent), a few bakers, and lots of olive oil shops. It was fun walking around and looking at all the things for sale. I found my ginger and bought a piece and wrapped it up to be used in my soup.

After the bakery, I went home and unpacked my goods. All my purchases totaled up to 12 euro (2 kilo carrots, one kilo string beans, a bunch of basil, a piece of ginger, 200 grams of ground beef, a loaf of whole wheat bread, and a baby ciabatta). It is so easy to find cheap, seasonal food here – it is good for me and for the environment!

The carrot-ginger soup… well that turned out amazing! It must have been all the fresh ingredients put into it. I love my market and do not think I could survive without it! It allows me to be environmentally conscious and be able to be a locavore…. It is awesome.

My soup and sandwich dinner!

Ciao!

A Piece of Americana In Florence

During our walk about Florence the night before, my friends and I decided that we would go to a very interesting food establishment the next day. There is a place called “The Diner” here in Florence – yes, Florence has a diner.

I am a big diner girl – I live in New Jersey where the diner is king. Give me a nice burger and fries and I will love you forever… I was really excited to get breakfast other than toast and peanut butter, which I am getting a little sick of. As I went to bed, I dreamed of big fluffy pancakes, drenched in maple syrup.

The big day dawned bright and beautiful – it was a perfect fall day, chilly, clear and sunny. We bundled up, pushed through the masses of tourists in the Duomo and finally arrived at The Diner.

The diner, of course does not look like a traditional diner. Yes, it tried to mimic the leather booths and tables but you can tell that you were in Italy (the walls were hot pink, which I thought was a great play on traditional diner red). We got a nice table outside and opened up the menu. I forwent a hamburger and decided to get French toast – I was dying for something that was hard for me to make myself on a normal basis. One of my roommates got an omelet and the other got pancakes. As we placed our orders, I looked around at the signs hanging from the door – they advertised American everything, ketchup, coffee, breakfast, etc. It felt like a piece of home in Florence (they had American brand ketchup which was awesome – ketchup is really different here in Italy).

Finally our food came and I looked like I was five years-old when my order was placed in front of me. I ordered French toast and hot chocolate. It seemed pretty non-descript but that was until my hot chocolate came out with about three inches of whipped cream and chocolate chips on top of it. It was very exciting!

The food was amazing and what made it unique was that it was American food with an Italian twist. My French toast was made with Tuscan bread – bread only made with water, flour and salt. The basically tasteless bread really let me appreciate the favors of the egg custard and cinnamon that are sometimes undervalued in French toast. Instead of a huge pitcher of syrup, I got a little carafe of it but also fresh raspberry puree, which tasted so much better than the syrup and was probably a lot better for me (plus the raspberries could have been local!). It was a fresh revision of American classics.

The rest of the day was full of relaxation and going out with friends… A perfect weekend!

Ciao!

My hot chocolate - whipped cream is half eaten!

French toast - so good

My Very Fashionable Day

Happy October! I hope you have a wonderful month filled with lots of friends, food, and love (and of course Halloween!). I started my month off in style – I went to my very first museum that displayed art!!

Before I headed off for my museum adventure, I had a lazy morning/afternoon writing and researching my gender paper. Whoever said that you do not study during your study abroad must have not taken my course load – I am up to my eyeballs in research. Beluga whales, WWII propaganda posters, and sketches of microscopes are filling up my documents folder on my laptop, all waiting to be spun into their respective papers. Hopefully I will be finished with the researching part soon so I can write the papers and be done with it…

The fun part of my day was when my roommate and I went to a very cool art museum – Il Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. For those of you who do not know Mr. Ferragamo, he was called the shoemaker to the stars – Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, and Greta Garbo are some of the famous women who have had their shoes custom-made by this man. He actually had wooden lasts (a wood model of the persons feet) for every one of his clients so he could make any shoe in their perfect size.

The Museum!

Since the museum is so small, special exhibits actually replace the normal collection. Our visit coincided with the special exhibit on Greta Garbo. They displayed shoes that Ferragamo made her (she has such amazing taste) and clothing she wore (she loved Valentina). Her style was so different – menswear and big hats mixed with frilly floral dresses and flat shoes (she started the ballet flat trend). It was incredible to see some of her wardrobe – would make any fashionista jealous.

After walking around the museum, we walked upstairs to the Ferragamo store. Inside the store, there is a boutique that sells shoes that are actually replicated patterns that Ferragamo designed for some of his clients. Ferragamo designed the shoe for an actress and the company kept the sketches. Now, still making them by hand, cobblers take the designs and make the shoes. They are so incredible! The salesperson was pulling out shoes to show us and it was amazing how they really did fit the personalities of the person who was going to wear them. I fell in love with this pair of butterscotch suede pumps that were a replica of shoes that Ferragamo made for Marilyn Monroe. They were so beautiful and showed real craftsmanship. Shoes are truly an art form.

After wandering around the (huge) Ferragamo shop, we walked home and made dinner. I made lemon chicken and my absolute favorite, pasta with peas! It was really awesome, simple food. Finally, we ended the night with a friends, walking around Florence and celebrating an amazing October to come.

Yummy Dinner!

Ciao!